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Module 075 · Architectural Intelligence

Route of a
Thousand Kasbahs

Tizi n'Tichka to Ouarzazate to the Drâa Valley. Pisé fortresses, Glaoui palaces, and Hollywood sets dissolving back into the earth they were built from.

4,000+earthen settlements in southern Morocco
370km — Tichka Pass to Merzouga
88,836km² — Drâa-Tafilalet region
1987Aït Benhaddou UNESCO inscription

001 — The Road

The Route

0km
Tizi n'Tichka Pass2,260m

Highest paved pass in North Africa. The gateway. Where Mediterranean ends and Sahara begins.

21km
Telouet1,800m

Glaoui palace. Crumbling grandeur. Off the main road — most tourists miss it.

50km
Aït Benhaddou1,300m

UNESCO ksar. Hollywood's desert. The most photographed mud-brick in the world.

80km
Ouarzazate1,160m

Gateway to the desert. Atlas Studios. Kasbah Taourirt. "The city without noise."

120km
Skoura1,100m

Palm oasis. Kasbah Amridil. 100+ bird species. The quiet one.

160km
El Kelaa M'Gouna1,450m

Valley of Roses. Rosa damascena. April–May harvest. Rose festival.

180km
Boumalne Dadès1,586m

Dadès Gorge entrance. 1,000ft canyon walls. Hairpin road.

220km
Tinghir1,342m

Todra Gorge. 30km gorge, 300m walls. Kasbah El Glaoui ruins.

280km
N'Kob1,100m

40+ kasbahs. Jebel Saghro foothills. Berber tribal centre.

370km
Merzouga700m

Erg Chebbi dunes. End of the road. Beginning of the Sahara.

The Route — Mapped

002 — The Kasbahs

The Fortresses

Aït Benhaddou

آيت بن حدو

Built

Fortified since 11th C (Almoravid). Current structures 17th C+

Location

Ounila Valley, 30km NW of Ouarzazate

Status

UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. Sparsely inhabited — 5 families remain (90+ in the 1940s)

The most famous ksar in Morocco. Strategic location on trans-Saharan trade route via Tizi n'Tichka pass — one of few routes across the Atlas connecting Marrakech to the Drâa Valley. Built on hillside above Ounila River. Defensive walls, corner towers, baffle gate. Mosque, caravanserai, two cemeteries (Muslim and Jewish). Agadir (fortified granary) crowns the summit. Rammed earth lower floors, lighter adobe upper floors. Hollywood's favourite backdrop — 20+ productions filmed here.

Featured on more film posters than any building in Africa

He simply failed to realise that feudal government was no longer acceptable.

Abdessadeq El Glaoui, on his father Thami

003 — The Dynasty

The Lord of the Atlas

No story of the kasbahs can avoid the Glaoui. Thami El Glaoui (1879–1956) — Pasha of Marrakech, ally of France, host to Churchill and Chaplin, one of the richest men in the world, and ultimately a traitor who died broken. His kasbahs line the route.

Rise

1893: Glaoui brothers rescue Sultan Moulay Hassan from an Atlas blizzard. Rewarded with a Krupp cannon and feudal titles. They crush rival warlords. By 1912, Thami is Pasha of Marrakech.

Power

Controlled the salt, olive, and saffron trades. Kasbah Telouet sat on caravan routes — every merchant paid tribute. Hosted Winston Churchill, Charlie Chaplin, Colette, Maurice Ravel. Attended Elizabeth II's coronation as Churchill's personal guest.

Betrayal

1953: Conspired with France to exile Sultan Mohammed V to Madagascar. Declared a puppet imam. Miscalculated — insurrection followed.

Fall

1955: Mohammed V returns in triumph. El Glaoui prostrates himself, kissing the ground at the Sultan's feet. French press photographs the humiliation. All Glaoui properties seized. January 23, 1956 — dies during evening prayers.

004 — Materials

How They
Were Built

Tighremt

ⵜⵉⵖⵔⵎⵜ / قصبة

Fortified family mansion

The kasbah proper. Square plan, corner towers, multiple storeys (up to six). Built for wealthy families. Decorated upper floors signal status. The word the Amazigh use instead of "kasbah."

Ksar (pl. Ksour)

ⵉⵖⵔⵎ / قصر

Fortified village

Walled settlement containing multiple dwellings, granaries, mosque, public spaces. Defensive walls with corner towers and baffle gates. The communal version of the tighremt.

Agadir

ⴰⴳⴰⴷⵉⵔ / أكادير

Fortified communal granary

Perched on hilltops above ksour. Stores grain, oil, valuables. Each family has a locked chamber. If the village falls, the food supply survives. Gives the modern city of Agadir its name.

Pisé / Tabiya

/ طابية

Rammed earth wall construction

Earth, straw, and pebbles compressed in wooden formwork (al-luh). Courses of ~80cm height. Walls 1 metre thick at base, tapering to 50cm on upper floors. Lime-free. Wooden beams and palm trunks for lintels and roofs. Requires constant maintenance — abandoned structures begin crumbling within decades.

Adobe

/ لبن

Sun-dried mud brick

Lighter than pisé. Used on upper floors and for decorative elements. Geometric motifs carved into wet earth — triangles, diamonds, Amazigh symbols.

Tataoui

/ ططاوي

Reed and wood ceiling

Reeds laid across wooden beams, creating patterned ceilings. Found in principal rooms of kasbahs. Painted with colourful motifs in wealthier households. Characteristic of Glaoui palaces.

005 — Hollywood

On Screen

Lawrence of Arabia1962

Aït BenhaddouArabian desert settings

Oedipus Rex1967

Aït BenhaddouAncient world backdrop

The Man Who Would Be King1975

Aït BenhaddouKafiristan fortress

The Jewel of the Nile1985

Aït BenhaddouNorth African settings

The Living Daylights1987

Ouarzazate region007 desert sequences

The Last Temptation of Christ1988

Ouarzazate regionBiblical landscapes

The Mummy1999

Aït BenhaddouAncient Egyptian city

Gladiator2000

Aït Benhaddou + Atlas StudiosZucchabar gladiatorial arena

Alexander2004

OuarzazateAncient world

Kingdom of Heaven2005

OuarzazateMedieval Jerusalem

Babel2006

OuarzazateMoroccan storyline

Prince of Persia2010

Aït BenhaddouAlamut

Game of Thrones2013

Aït BenhaddouYunkai + Pentos

006 — Chronology

Timeline

~550 BC

Hanno of Carthage makes first known reference to the Drâa Valley

90–168 AD

Ptolemy maps the Drâa River — it appears on his map of Africa

680 AD

Umayyad conquest brings Islam to the Atlas and Drâa Valley. Berbers convert

11th C

Almoravid period — Aït Benhaddou first fortified as strategic trade post

12th C

Almohad dynasty establishes Skoura oasis settlement. Irrigation systems built

16th C

Tamnougalt kasbah built — among the oldest surviving. Saadian trade routes peak

1672–1727

Moulay Ismail orders fortresses built throughout southern Morocco for defence

1860

Mohammed Ibiyet begins construction of Kasbah Telouet. 300 craftsmen. 5 years

1893

Sultan Moulay Hassan trapped in Atlas blizzard. Glaoui brothers rescue him. Rewarded with Krupp cannon and feudal titles

1912

Thami El Glaoui becomes Pasha of Marrakech. French Protectorate begins. Glaoui allies with colonial power

1953

El Glaoui conspires to exile Sultan Mohammed V. Declares Ben Arafa as imam. Insurrection follows

1956

Morocco's independence. El Glaoui dies January 23. All Glaoui properties seized. Kasbahs abandoned

1962

Lawrence of Arabia filmed at Aït Benhaddou — Hollywood discovers the route

1987

Aït Benhaddou inscribed as UNESCO World Heritage Site

1990

CERKAS established in Ouarzazate — dedicated to conservation of earthen architecture in the Atlas region

2000

Gladiator filmed at Aït Benhaddou and Ouarzazate. Arena purpose-built with traditional mud bricks

2011–2019

Game of Thrones films at Aït Benhaddou (Yunkai, Pentos). Global tourism surges

2011–2016

Getty Conservation Institute + CERKAS develop Conservation and Rehabilitation Plan for Kasbah Taourirt

2023

Marrakesh–Safi earthquake damages Kasbah Telouet and other Atlas structures

Oct 2025

75 million MAD tourism revival plan for Ouarzazate announced — heritage enhancements at Kasbah Taourirt Square

Key Numbers

20+

Films shot at Aït Benhaddou — from Lawrence of Arabia (1962) to Game of Thrones (2019)

12,000

m² — Kasbah Taourirt's total area. One of Morocco's largest earthen complexes

300

Craftsmen who built Kasbah Telouet over 5 years. Artisans brought from across Morocco, including Fez

67:33

Sand to clay ratio — optimal for earthen wall restoration. Confirmed by Getty Conservation Institute

1,800

Metres elevation — Kasbah Telouet. The highest major kasbah on the route

75M

MAD — tourism revival plan for Ouarzazate announced October 2025. Heritage enhancements at Taourirt

Sources

UNESCO World Heritage Centre

Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou — Inscription 1987, criteria (iv) and (v)

Getty Conservation Institute

Conservation and Rehabilitation Plan for Tighermt (Kasbah) Taourirt, Southern Morocco (2016)

CERKAS (Ouarzazate)

Centre de Conservation et de Réhabilitation du Patrimoine Architectural Atlasique et Subatlasique. Systematic aerial photography inventory of Drâa Valley since 2001

Rom Landau

The Kasbahs of Southern Morocco. Faber and Faber Ltd, London, 1969

Wikipedia / Multiple Academic Sources

Thami El Glaoui (1879–1956). Pasha of Marrakech. Glaoui clan history. Telouet Kasbah construction and abandonment

Drâa-Tafilalet Region — 2014 Census

1,635,008 population. 88,836 km². Oases occupy 88% of regional area. Five provinces.